We spent a fascinating day at Blagaj (pronounced, "Blah-GAI"), a national monument of 13th-century buildings set over a natural spring, including a musafirhana (meeting place) built by the Bektashi order of dervishes in 1470. Visitors of all faiths are encouraged to come to Blagaj and explore, provided they are barefoot and in proper dress. Men must wear long pants and headscarves and skirts are provided for the women, free of charge. As sister-in-law, niece and I can attest, there is nothing so nice as being dressed by the gentle hands of the hostess ...

The musafirhana was decorated with a multitude of beautiful Bosnian rugs made from dyed wool and handwoven with intricate patterns. These traditional designs are not written down or recorded, only produced through the memory of the weaver, and are passed down from generation to generation through careful instruction.

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After a walk around the grounds, we enjoyed an outdoor lunch next to the ice cold Buna River. Lots of summer salads, Bey soup (a Bosnian broth with vegetables) and one of our favorite dishes—Cevap-cici, flatbread filled with lamb, grilled vegetables and ajvar, a delicious sauce made of roasted peppers and eggplant.